Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
